Hog Wild

Upscale Country Cooking

By Rita Flórez • Photos by Jennifer Kettler

Don’t tell your family doctor, but adding bacon fat—or any grease from a hog for that matter—could add some punch to your cooking.

Steven Burger, president of Burgers’ Smokehouse, taught a Columbia Home & Lifestyle-sponsored cooking class at Designer Kitchens & Baths for 10 True Media employees and friends Sept. 22. The class centered on hog-based recipes for the holidays, the bread and butter of Burger’s business.

He described Burgers’ Smokehouse’s style as “country cooking with an upscale flare.”

The family-owned business first focused on country ham, which still makes up to 60 percent of Burger’s business. After opening up shop in California, Mo., in 1952, Burger’s Smokehouse expanded into country bacon, sausage and other smoked meats.

“Aunt” Margaret Bueker, the last of the first generation of owners, died about a year ago at 102.
“Fried food finally got her,” Burger joked with the group.

The secret to country cooking is in the grease, he said.

“Good country cooking requires you to keep the grease,” Burger said. “If you save the grease from your jowl or your bacon, it’s excellent to fry your eggs or potatoes in as a replacement for your vegetable oil.”
The hog is a very versatile animal, Burger said.

“I don’t even know where to start,” he explained. “Some cuts are good for seasoning; other parts, like the loin, are very good for big meals.”

The women oohed and aahed when Burger placed a layered spinach, tortellini and country jowl salad on the marble demo island at the 1729 W. Broadway store. The jowl, coming from the pig’s cheek, is similar to bacon in taste, but the distinctions between the two are subtle. Burger cooked the jowl like he cooks bacon. He fried the meat in a skillet until it became crisp.

“The jowl is creamer, richer and smoother than bacon,” Burger told the women. “This is the candy off the pig.”

Lisa Dudenhoeffer, who is married to a farmer, said she hadn’t even heard of the jowl until the late-September class.

Burger said if someone didn’t know the ingredient, they’d probably assume it’s bacon.

“Bacon can be substituted easily,” he said. Like bacon, the jowls go through a curing process that gives the meat its flavor. “With dry curing, you’re dehydrating (the meat), and that gives it a much richer, bolder flavor.”

Burger used the salad as a jumping off point to discuss other potential uses for pork.

“You can do a country bacon veggie pizza,” he suggested. “Casseroles are also a good way to have something wholesome with very little fuss in the morning.”

For women who don’t want to wake up at five in the morning to start cooking a holiday meal, Burger recommends buying a precooked ham, such as a spiral cut ham.

But there was a caveat.

“Heat it to room temperature,” he said. “All you’re looking to do is take the chill off the ham. By overheating it, you risk losing the flavor.”

Lou Boucher, a friend of a True Media employee, said the class was worth it just for the recipes.

“I’m always looking for new recipes, and I don’t want to have to go hunt for them myself,” she said.

Layered spinach, tortellini and country jowl salad

• 1 pound country jowl, cooked crisp and crumbled
• 19 ounces frozen uncooked cheese tortellini
• 1 bag (about 6 ounces) fresh baby spinach, torn and larger stems removed
• 1¼ cups grape tomatoes, cut in half (reserve ¼ cup for garnish)
• 1 cup sliced green onions (reserve 2 tablespoons for garnish)
• 1 cup finely shredded cheddar cheese (reserve 2 tablespoons for garnish)
• 1 cup prepared ranch dressing
• 1 cup mayonnaise or salad dressing
• ½ tablespoon sugar
• White pepper to taste

1. Cook country jowl until crisp and drain the oil. When cool enough to handle,
crumble and set aside.
2. Cook tortellini according to package directions; drain and rinse with cold water
till cool.
3. Mix the ranch dressing, mayonnaise or salad dressing, sugar and white pepper until
well combined and set aside.
4. In a 13x9x2-inch glass dish layer spinach, tortellini, tomatoes and green onions.
5. Pour dressing over top.
6. Sprinkle with shredded cheese and then the crumbled jowl.
7. Garnish with reserved green onions, grape tomatoes and shredded cheese.
8. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Yields about 12 servings

Southwestern country ham soup

• 1 pound small red beans
• 2 quarts cold water
• 24 ounces chopped country cooked ham
• 1 can diced tomatoes with green chilies
• 1 chopped onion
• 1 can whole kernel corn (drained)
• 2 packages (dry) ranch salad dressing
• 2 packages taco seasoning (no salt added)
• Corn chips
• Shredded cheese (your choice)
• Jalapeño peppers sliced or diced

1. Wash 1 pound of small red beans. Place the washed beans and the 2 quarts of water
in a large, heavy pan.
2. Soak the beans overnight, and do not drain before cooking.
3. When the beans are ready to cook, add the chopped ham, tomatoes and onion.
4. Cook until the beans are tender, approximately two hours. When the beans are
tender, add the corn, ranch dressing and taco seasoning. Simmer for 15 to 20
minutes stirring occasionally.
5. Serve with corn chips, shredded cheese and sliced or diced jalapeño peppers.
Yields about three quarts

Country ham breakfast casserole

• ¼ cup butter
• 1 cup unseasoned croutons
• ½ cup cheddar cheese
• 4 eggs
• ¾ cup milk
• 1 teaspoon dry mustard
• 1 cup country ham, sliced and chopped
• White pepper to taste

1. Melt butter in an eight inch oven baking dish.
2. Add croutons and toss to coat with butter.
3. Sprinkle cheese on top of croutons.
4. In a large bowl combine eggs, milk, dry mustard and pepper. Beat well.
5. Add cubed cooked ham and stir until coated.
6. Pour egg and country ham mixture over croutons and cheese.
7. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
8. The next morning, preheat the over to 375 degrees.
9. Bake for 40 minutes, until eggs are set.
10. Let stand for about five minutes before serving.